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Comparison of Recording Media

Peter L. Patrick, Autumn 2009

Sociolinguistic Research Methods

  

Microcass

Cassette

MiniDisc

DAT

Laptop

Rec CD

Flash

Size

√√

√√

xx

x

√√

Cost of Quality

x

x

xx

Quality

xx

√√

?/√/*

√√

√√

Robust to use

?

√√

x

x

√√√

Robust medium

?

√√

?

√√

x

√?

?

Digital/Analog:

A

A

D

D

D

D

D

Archiving

x

?

?

?

?

?

Degradation

x

x

xx

√?

Compression

xx

* Quality of PC laptop sound generally depends on how much extra money you are willing to spend on high-end components when you are first buying, or replacing/adding-on later. Most PC laptops, even those designed for “media” (ie gaming and DVDs), have mediocre sound quality that will not do – there is noise interference from internal components. But there are exceptions... Both quality, and cost of quality, depend too on how much you know about PCs and their components.

Audio formats

The media listed above – indeed, this is generally true – don’t all use the same formats for data. In the old days, this meant what your data were “on”: wax cylinders, disks, magnetic tape of varying widths (eg cassettes vs reels), etc. Nowadays for digital data, it means what kind of file format the recording is in. Most digital file formats were invented to sell you pre-recorded music, not to give high-quality accessible audio for research. So many file formats are not ideal for our use. You need to know just a bit about them, if you don’t already, and you can find that bit here...

http://www.geeks.com/techtips/ttpdfs/TechTips-111.pdf

To convert from one audio format to another, you’ll need software – look here for my recommendation, Audacity.

Recommendation: Go digital. It’s not worth using anything analog (tape) anymore.

But everything changes, every year! Here’s the last few years’ worth of changes in what I recommend (Beware: obviously, most of the older advice, prices, etc. are now outdated):

o        Five years ago, I said:

1) Buy DAT for acoustic analysis if you can afford it.

2) If not, & for everything else, buy MiniDisk. [see note-1 at bottom!]

I’ve changed my mind about (1). ...

o        Four years ago, I said:

3) Forget DAT. Digital sound is now widely available – DAT technology is good but becoming outdated.

4) The new Hi-MD standard for MiniDisk is a big improvement – you can find out all you ever wanted to know about it by browsing thru user-group discussion lists, if they still exist. Beware: techies!

·              Three years ago (autumn 2005), I said:

5) Buy a flash-card solid-state recorder if you have the money (£8-900!).

6) A portable CD-recorder is slightly cheaper and also very good, but not quite as small or as robust to use.

But for most people, you could still

7) Buy a HiMD Mini-disk recorder. They were available from about £135 to £300, with very good models for £180 or so (prices probably out of date).

·              Two years ago, I bought myself

8) a digital flash recorder: M-Audio MicroTrack 24/96, webpage here

o        It cost about £220 then;

o        It records 2 channels to both MP3 and WAV formats, so ideal for our purposes;

o        You can drag & drop files to your PC, it has decent battery life, and uses compact flashcard storage.

o        There are other models out there, but they generally cost as much or more and are not nearly as good.

·              Autumn 2009: This is still my choice, but there is a newer model, the MicroTrack II (UK site). It costs a mere £120 now and has been improved a bit.

If this is still too much for you, don't despair! The Dept. owns several MicroTrack recorders and you can check one out. Otherwise:

9) The cheapest pretty-good digital sound is via MP3 and other inexpensive digital recorders aimed at the recorded-music market. Compared to the above, they have serious drawbacks, but you will spend less money. If you’re not serious about high quality, this is the way to go. Pointers on what to look for (more detail below):

§        Make sure they are not just players! Ie, that they will record sound: check for a Mic input channel. (Not just Line In, which is an input for e.g. downloading from your PC.)

§        Pay special attention to the available audio file formats.MP3 is one (compressed) format; uncompressed standard ones include .WAV (Windows) and .AIFF (Mac). More details on audio formats.

§        If you have a Line Out jack, that’s good too – you will be able to export your digital sound to your PC. Otherwise, you would have to do it through your Headphones output jack, which is not good quality.

Some of these recorders are very cheap indeed. If you can find a cheap one that includes all the above features, buy it. There are hundreds of models – I can’t really give more advice than this, but you can come see me in office hours and I will try to explain this again, better!

It often costs a fair bit of money to get good sound. But then, your thesis or dissertation costs a lot more – and is only as good as the data you collect. Spend enough to get good equipment – you can always play music on it! If you don’t spend a couple hundred quid, you will only get mediocre sound quality. If you just don’t have any money, you can arrange to borrow Dept. equipment – but you will have to share it with others, and will miss a number of good opportunities because of not having your own handy.

The basics: Minimally, any recording device must be able to record! (that sounds obvious, but some Mini-Disks or MP3s are for playback only, so be sure), and accept an external microphone, whether or not there is a built-in one, and have independent recording-level control.

If it’s digital, as it should be, you’re going to want to up-load your data into your computer – for that, you need to have a dedicated Line-Out channel (not just the Headphones channel, which puts out a very weak signal since it’s only intended to drive tiny headphones speakers). It may also be handy to have a Line-In too, if you want to either download from PC or the net, or from other recording sources (e.g. non-digital ones).

Do not use a MD, or any other digital medium, in long-play mode – it simply further compresses, and degrades, the recording signal. When copying sound files, make copies from master to computer HD, then CD, to avoid further degradation.

For microphones: Get a lavaliere (=tie-tac) model, preferably stereo, since you may get several speakers and need to tell them apart. Shape of recording area matters: omni-directional or cardioid (heart-shaped) are OK. (Try out tabletop mics from the Dept. to hear their characteristics; not recommended for many uses, though. Do not buy a highly directional mic that can “zero in” on a target.)

Any external mic, at all, increases your chances of being able to get good mic placement, which is absolutely crucial to making good recordings. Hand-held mics are very obtrusive, and so are head-set mics, but both can give excellent results in experimental settings; for casual speech, lavaliere mics, or mics the size of your thumb or smaller, are the best bet. The mic is the most important part of your equipment – be prepared to spend enough to get a decent one.

More details: Feel free to consult with me during office hours about specific models, before you buy. Do not trust what audio salespeople tell you. They have no clue about recording speech! and are often poorly informed about their own equipment. If you can buy outside of the UK, do so – it’ll be much cheaper. Buy a reliable brand – I used to always get Sony, before M-Audio – they’re expensive, but you do get something for the extra money.

Free Online Tutorials

Note-1: The BBC provides a free online tutorial about MiniDiscs for Radio. It’s basically a glorified manual, but much easier to follow than the manual, and covers all basic functions in bite-sized chunks. Their models are old, but the basics haven’t changed (yet!). See it here: www.bbctraining.com/radio.asp. Also see their brief tutorial about Microphones and Sound for Radio from the same page (not much different from mine, and pretty basic, but better production values!). If you really want to buy Audition (below), you can find tutorials here also for older versions of it.

Free, and Not-so-Free, Audio Software

Finally, you may find it useful to step through their multi-part free tutorial on Using CoolEdit Pro. This program is no longer in existence, having been snapped up by Adobe and renamed Audition (price GB £300+!, and much glossier now). But it is pretty typical of software for editing sound files, and extremely easy to use. This course gives you an idea of the things you can and might want to do with such software, in depth – also much better than Adobe’s own overview, though of course the product has changed a bit by now. Adobe advertises it as being about working with music files, but the Beeb used it for editing radio interviews, and you can do a range of useful linguistic things with it or a similar package. Other cheap, free- or share-ware includes GoldWave, which has been used by students a lot. It’s no longer free but is pretty cheap, and you can use the evaluation version for free for some purposes. http://www.goldwave.com/.

The kinds of things you will want audio software for include recording, editing, file-conversion, and uploading. You may e.g. want to use a program to cut small bites out of an 80-minute file for further analysis.

My recommendation: A much better idea than GoldWave, Audition or CoolEdit is to get Audacity, free. The software most people use now is Audacity, an open-source package for recording and editing sound. There’s a good wiki on it at: http://audacityteam.org/wiki/ and the homepage is at: http://audacity.sourceforge.net/.

For all of these, if you want to work with MP3 (I recommend you don’t, for linguistic purposes – but hey, if all your music is in that format, you’ll want to use the programs on that too), you’ll need a separate little program called LAME (it’s better than its name) which is an MP3 encoder (MP3 is an audio file format, a little piece of technology which is owned and copyrighted, so you can’t just use any software to create it). Get LAME – download it, and install in the same file folder as whatever software you use it with – find it here: http://lame.sourceforge.net/.

You’ll notice I keep referring to tools at SourceForge.net. It’s the best general source of free software for many of our needs. It is not remotely commercial, or knock-offs of commercial items – much of it is developed by professionals, for research or other purposes, and put out open-source and free for anyone to use. Explore http://sourceforge.net/.

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Last updated 19 October 2009